ʻO nā mānoanoa ke ʻano o ka iwi iwi a me ke kumu kumu o nā ʻano hana hoʻonaninani like ʻole, a he mea koʻikoʻi i ke ʻano, nā waiwai rheological, kūpaʻa, a me ka ʻili o nā huahana. E koho i nā mānoanoa maʻamau o nā ʻano ʻano like ʻole, e hoʻomākaukau iā lākou i loko o nā ʻano wai me nā ʻano ʻokoʻa like ʻole, e hoʻāʻo i ko lākou mau waiwai kino a me nā mea kemika e like me ka viscosity a me ka p H, a hoʻohana i ka hoʻohālikelike descriptive quantitative e loiloi i ko lākou helehelena, ʻikea, a me nā waiwai ʻili a me ka ʻili. i ka wā a ma hope o ka hoʻohana ʻana. Ua hana ʻia nā hoʻāʻo sensory ma muli o nā hōʻailona sensory, a ua ʻimi ʻia nā palapala e hōʻuluʻulu a hōʻuluʻulu i nā ʻano ʻano mānoanoa, hiki ke hāʻawi i kahi kuhikuhi no ka hoʻolālā ʻana i ka cosmetic formula.
1. ʻO ka wehewehe ʻana o ka mānoanoa
Nui nā mea i hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia e like me nā mānoanoa. Mai ka hiʻohiʻona o ke kaumaha molekala pili, aia nā mānoanoa haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa a me nā mānoanoa molekala kiʻekiʻe; mai ka hiʻohiʻona o nā hui hana, aia nā electrolytes, alcohols, amides, carboxylic acids and esters, etc. E kali. Hoʻokaʻawale ʻia nā mānoanoa e like me ke ʻano o ka hoʻokaʻawale ʻana o nā mea waiwai cosmetic.
1. Haʻahaʻa molekala kaumaha mānoanoa
1.1.1 Paakai anoano
ʻO ka ʻōnaehana e hoʻohana ana i ka paʻakai inorganic ma ke ʻano he mānoanoa he ʻōnaehana hoʻonā wai surfactant. ʻO ka mānoanoa paʻakai inorganic i hoʻohana pinepine ʻia ʻo ka sodium chloride, nona ka hopena mānoanoa. Hoʻokumu nā surfactants i nā micelles i loko o ka wai wai, a ʻo ka hele ʻana o nā electrolytes e hoʻonui i ka helu o nā hui o nā micelles, e alakaʻi ana i ka hoʻololi ʻana o nā micelles spherical i loko o nā micelles koʻokoʻo, e hoʻonui i ke kū'ē i ka neʻe ʻana, a pēlā e hoʻonui ai i ka viscosity o ka ʻōnaehana. Eia nō naʻe, i ka nui o ka electrolyte, e hoʻopili ia i ka ʻōnaehana micellar, e hoʻemi i ka neʻe ʻana o ka neʻe ʻana, a hoʻemi i ka viscosity o ka ʻōnaehana, ʻo ia ka mea i kapa ʻia ʻo "salting out". No laila, ʻo ka nui o ka electrolyte i hoʻohui ʻia he 1% -2% ma ka nuipa, a hana pū ia me nā ʻano mānoanoa ʻē aʻe e paʻa i ka ʻōnaehana.
1.1.2 Nā waiʻona momona, nā ʻakika momona
ʻO nā ʻawaʻawa momona a me nā ʻakika momona he mau mea ola polar. Manaʻo kekahi mau ʻatikala iā lākou he surfactants nonionic no ka mea aia nā pūʻulu lipophilic a me nā pūʻulu hydrophilic. He hopena koʻikoʻi ka noho ʻana o ka liʻiliʻi o ia mau mea ola i ka ʻili o ka ʻili, omc a me nā waiwai ʻē aʻe o ka surfactant, a piʻi ka nui o ka hopena me ka lōʻihi o ke kaulahao kalapona, ma ka pilina laina. ʻO kāna kumu o ka hana, hiki i nā ʻawaʻawa momona a me nā ʻakika momona ke hoʻokomo (hoʻohui) i nā micelles surfactant e hāpai i ke kūkulu ʻana i nā micelles. ʻO ka hopena o ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana o ka hydrogen ma waena o nā poʻo polar) e hoʻonohonoho pono ʻia nā molekala ʻelua ma ka ʻili, e hoʻololi nui i nā waiwai o nā micelles surfactant a loaʻa i ka hopena o ka mānoanoa.
2. Ka hoʻokaʻawale ʻana o nā mānoanoa
2.1 Nonionic SAA
2.1.1 Paakai anoano
ʻO ka sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, monoethanolamine chloride, diethanolamine chloride, sodium sulfate, sodium phosphate, disodium phosphate a me pentasodium triphosphate, etc.
2.1.2 Nā waiʻona momona a me nā ʻakika momona
Lauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, C12-15 Alcohol, C12-16 Alcohol, Decyl Alcohol, Hexyl Alcohol, Octyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Lauric Acid, C18-36 Acid, Linoleic Acid, koʻu ʻakika Linolenic , ʻakika stearic, ʻakika behenic, etc.
2.1.3 Alkanolamides
ʻO Coco Diethanolamide, Coco Monoethanolamide, Coco Monoisopropanolamide, Cocamide, Lauroyl-Linoleoyl Diethanolamide, Lauroyl-Myristoyl Diethanolamide, Isostearyl Diethanolamide, Linoleic Diethanolamide, Cardamom Diethanolamide, Cardamom Monoethanolamide, ʻAila Diethanolamide, ʻAila Diethanolamide, Diethanolamide olamide, Stearyl Diethanolamide, Stearin Monoethanolamide, stearyl monoethanolamide stearate, stearamide, tallow monoethanolamide, wheat germ diethanolamide, PEG (polyethylene glycol) -3 lauramide, PEG-4 oleamide, PEG-50 tallow amide etc.
2.1.4 Etera
Cetyl polyoxyethylene (3) etera, isocetyl polyoxyethylene (10) etera, lauryl polyoxyethylene (3) etera, lauryl polyoxyethylene (10) etera, Poloxamer-n (ethoxylated Polyoxypropylene ether) (n=105, 124, 124, 1785, 325 , 407), etc.
2.1.5 Ester
PEG-80 Glyceryl Tallow Ester, PEC-8PPG (Polypropylene Glycol)-3 Diisostearate, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmitate, PEG-n (n=6, 8, 12) Beeswax, PEG -4 isostearate, PEG-n (n= 3, 4, 8, 150) distearate, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate/cocoate, PEG-8 dioleate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-n (n=28, 200) Glyceryl Shea Butter, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Aila Jojoba PEG-40, PEG-2 Laurate, PEG-120 Methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-150 pentaerythritol stearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-n (n=8, 75, 100) Stearate , PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI Copolymer (Polyethylene Glycol-150/Decyl/Methacrylate Copolymer), PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI Copolymer, PEG- 90. Isostearate, PEG-8PPG-3 Dilaurate, Cetyl18 Myristate, Cetyl18 Palmitate -36 Ethylene Glycol Acid, Pentaerythritol Stearate, Pentaerythritol Behenate, Propylene Glycol Stearate, Behenyl Ester, Cetyl Ester, Glyceryl Tribehenate, Glyceryl Trihydroxystearate, etc.
2.1.6 Amine oxide
Myristyl amine oxide, isostearyl aminopropyl amine oxide, aila niu aminopropyl amine oxide, palaoa germ aminopropyl amine oxide, soybean aminopropyl amine oxide, PEG-3 lauryl amine oxide, etc.
2.2 Ke kāne SAA
ʻO Cetyl Betaine, Coco Aminosulfobetaine, etc.
2.3 Anionic SAA
Potassium oleate, potassium stearate, etc.
2.4 Polymers hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ka wai
2.4.1 Cellulose
Cellulose, cellulose gum, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, formazan Base cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, etc.
2.4.2 Polyoxyethylene
PEG-n (n=5M, 9M, 23M, 45M, 90M, 160M), etc.
2.4.3 Polyacrylic acid
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Cetyl Ethoxy(20) Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Cetyl Ethoxy(20) Methyl Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Tetradecyl Ethoxy(25) Acrylate Copolymer,20 Copolymer Acrylate,20 Copolymer Acrylates Acrylates/Octadecane Ethoxy(20) Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylate/Ocaryl Ethoxy(50) Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylate/VA Crosspolymer, PAA (Polyacrylic Acid), Sodium Acrylate/ Vinyl isodecanoate crosslinked polymer, Carbomer (polyacrylic acid, etc.) .
2.4.4 Lapa maoli a me kāna mau huahana i hoʻololi ʻia
Alginic acid a me kāna (ammonium, calcium, potassium) paʻakai, pectin, sodium hyaluronate, guar gum, cationic guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, tragacanth gum, carrageenan a me kāna (calcium, sodium) paʻakai, xanthan gum, sclerotin gum, etc.
2.4.5 Nā polymers anorganic a me kā lākou mau huahana i hoʻololi ʻia
Magnesium aluminika silicate, silica, sodium magnesium silicate, hydrated silica, montmorillonite, sodium lithium magnesium silicate, hectorite, stearyl ammonium montmorillonite, stearyl ammonium hectorite, quaternary ammonium paʻakai -90 montmorillonite, quaternary ammonium -18 montmorillonite, etc. .
2.4.6 Nā mea ʻē aʻe
PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer (crosslinked polymer of polyvinyl methyl ether/methyl acrylate and decadiene), PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone), etc.
2.5 Nā mea hoʻoheheʻe
2.5.1 Alkanolamides
ʻO ka mea maʻamau i hoʻohana ʻia ʻo ia ka diethanolamide niu. Ua kūpono nā Alkanolamides me nā electrolytes no ka mānoanoa a hāʻawi i nā hopena maikaʻi loa. Alkanolamides
ʻO ka mīkini mānoanoa ka pilina me nā micelles surfactant anionic e hana i kahi wai non-Newtonian. He ʻokoʻa ka hana ʻana o nā alkanolamides like ʻole, a ʻokoʻa hoʻi ko lākou hopena ke hoʻohana wale ʻia a hui pū ʻia paha. Hōʻike kekahi mau ʻatikala i ka mānoanoa a me ka huʻahuʻi o nā alkanolamides like ʻole. I kēia mau lā, ua hōʻike ʻia aia nā alkanolamides i ka pōʻino o ka hana ʻana i nā nitrosamines carcinogenic ke hana ʻia lākou i mea hoʻonaninani. Ma waena o nā haumia o nā alkanolamides he amine manuahi, ʻo ia nā kumu kumu o nitrosamines. I kēia manawa ʻaʻohe manaʻo kūhelu mai ka ʻoihana mālama pilikino e pili ana i ka pāpā ʻana i nā alkanolamides i nā mea hoʻonaninani.
2.5.2 Etera
I ka hana ʻana me ka momona momona polyoxyethylene ether sulfate (AES) ma ke ʻano he mea hana nui, maʻamau, hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia nā paʻakai inorganic e hoʻoponopono i ka viscosity kūpono. Ua hōʻike ʻia nā haʻawina ma muli o ka loaʻa ʻana o nā ethoxylates waiʻona momona ʻole i loko o AES, e hāʻawi nui i ka mānoanoa o ka hopena surfactant. Ua ʻike ʻia ka noiʻi hohonu: ʻo ka awelika degere o ka ethoxylation ma kahi o 3EO a i ʻole 10EO e pāʻani i ka hana maikaʻi loa. Eia kekahi, ʻo ka hopena mānoanoa o ka momona momona ethoxylates e pili ana i ka laula o ka hāʻawi ʻana i nā waiʻona unreacted a me nā homologues i loko o kā lākou huahana. Ke ʻoi aku ka laulā o ka homologs, ʻilihune ka hopena mānoanoa o ka huahana, a ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi o ka hāʻawi ʻana i nā homologues, ʻoi aku ka nui o ka hopena mānoanoa.
2.5.3 Ester
ʻO nā mea mānoanoa i hoʻohana pinepine ʻia he esters. I kēia mau lā, ua hōʻike ʻia ʻo PEG-8PPG-3 diisostearate, PEG-90 diisostearate a me PEG-8PPG-3 dilaurate ma waho. Aia kēia ʻano mānoanoa i ka mānoanoa non-ionic, hoʻohana nui ʻia i ka ʻōnaehana wai wai surfactant. ʻAʻole maʻalahi kēia mau mānoanoa i ka hydrolyzed a paʻa ka viscosity paʻa ma luna o kahi ākea o ka pH a me ka mahana. I kēia manawa, ʻo ka PEG-150 distearate ka mea maʻamau. ʻO nā esters i hoʻohana ʻia ma ke ʻano he mānoanoa he nui nā paona molekala, no laila, loaʻa iā lākou kekahi mau waiwai o nā pūhui polymer. ʻO ka mīkini mānoanoa ma muli o ka hoʻokumu ʻia ʻana o kahi pūnaewele hydration ʻekolu-dimensional i loko o ka pae wai, a laila hoʻokomo ʻia nā micelles surfactant. ʻO ia mau pūhui e hana e like me nā emollients a me nā moisturizers i hoʻohui ʻia i kā lākou hoʻohana ʻana ma ke ʻano he mānoanoa i nā mea hoʻonaninani.
2.5.4 Amine oxides
ʻO Amine oxide kahi ʻano polar non-ionic surfactant, i ʻike ʻia e: i ka wai wai, ma muli o ka ʻokoʻa o ka waiwai pH o ka hopena, hōʻike ia i nā waiwai non-ionic, a hiki ke hōʻike i nā waiwai ionic ikaika. Ma lalo o nā kūlana kūʻokoʻa a i ʻole alkaline, ʻo ia hoʻi, ke ʻoi aku ka pH ma mua o a i ʻole like me 7, aia ka amine oxide ma ke ʻano he hydrate non-ionized i loko o ka wai wai, e hōʻike ana i ka non-ionicity. I ka hoʻonā ʻakika, hōʻike ia i ka cationicity nāwaliwali. Ke emi ka pH o ka hopena ma lalo o 3, ʻike maopopo ʻia ka cationicity o ka amine oxide, no laila hiki ke hana maikaʻi me ka cationic, anionic, nonionic a me zwitterionic surfactants ma lalo o nā kūlana like ʻole. Hoʻopili maikaʻi a hōʻike i ka hopena synergistic. ʻO ka Amine oxide kahi mānoanoa kūpono. Ke hiki i ka pH 6.4-7.5, hiki i ka alkyl dimethyl amine oxide ke hana i ka viscosity o ka hui a hiki i 13.5Pa.s-18Pa.s, oiai hiki i ka alkyl amidopropyl dimethyl oxide Amines ke hana i ka viscosity hui a hiki i 34Pas-49Pas, a ʻo ka hoʻohui ʻana i ka paʻakai i ka mea hope ʻaʻole ia e hōʻemi i ka viscosity.
2.5.5 Nā mea ʻē aʻe
Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia kekahi helu liʻiliʻi o nā betaine a me nā kopa i mea mānoanoa (e nānā i ka Papa 1). Ua like ko lākou ʻano mānoanoa me nā molekole liʻiliʻi ʻē aʻe, a loaʻa iā lākou a pau ka hopena mānoanoa ma o ka launa pū ʻana me nā micelles ʻeleʻele. Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia nā kopa no ka mānoanoa i nā lāʻau hoʻonaninani, a hoʻohana nui ʻia ka betaine i nā ʻōnaehana wai surfactant.
2.6 Mānoanoa polymer hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe wai
ʻAʻole pili ʻia nā ʻōnaehana mānoanoa me nā mānoanoa polymeric e ka pH solution a i ʻole ka ʻike electrolyte. Eia kekahi, pono ka liʻiliʻi o nā mānoanoa polymer e hoʻokō i ka viscosity pono. No ka laʻana, pono kahi huahana i kahi mānoanoa surfactant e like me ka aila niu diethanolamide me ka hapa nui o 3.0%. No ka loaʻa ʻana o ka hopena like, lawa wale ka fiber 0.5% o ka polymer maʻemaʻe. ʻAʻole hoʻohana wale ʻia ka hapa nui o nā pūhui polymer wai e like me nā mānoanoa i ka ʻoihana hoʻonaninani, akā hoʻohana ʻia hoʻi e like me nā mea hoʻokuʻu, dispersants a me nā styling agents.
2.6.1 Cellulose etera
ʻO ka cellulose ether kahi mānoanoa maikaʻi loa i nā ʻōnaehana wai a hoʻohana nui ʻia i nā ʻano mea hoʻonaninani. ʻO ka cellulose kahi mea kūlohelohe maoli, aia nā ʻāpana glucoside mau, a ʻo kēlā me kēia ʻāpana glucoside he 3 mau pūʻulu hydroxyl, kahi e hiki ai ke hoʻokumu ʻia nā ʻano derivatives. ʻO nā mea mānoanoa cellulosic mānoanoa ma o nā kaulahao lōʻihi hydration-swelling, a ʻo ka ʻōnaehana cellulose-thickened e hōʻike i ka pseudoplastic rheological morphology. ʻO ka hapa nui o ka hoʻohana ma kahi o 1%.
2.6.2 Polyacrylic acid
He 40 makahiki i hala mai ka wā i hoʻokomo ai ʻo Coodrich iā Carbomer934 i loko o ka mākeke i ka makahiki 1953, a i kēia manawa ua nui aʻe nā koho no kēia pūʻulu o nā mānoanoa (e nānā i ka Papa 1). ʻElua mau hana mānoanoa o polyacrylic acid thickeners, ʻo ia hoʻi ka neutralization thickening a me ka hydrogen bond thickening. ʻO ka neutralization a me ka mānoanoa ka mea e hoʻokaʻawale i ka mānoanoa polyacrylic acidic e hoʻokaʻawale i kāna mau mole a hoʻohua i nā koina maikaʻi ʻole ma ke kaulahao nui o ka polymer. ʻO ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana ma waena o nā hoʻopiʻi kāne like ʻole e hoʻoikaika i nā molekala e hoʻopololei a wehe i kahi pūnaewele. Hoʻokō ka hana i ka hopena mānoanoa; ʻO ka mānoanoa hoʻopaʻa hydrogen ʻo ia ka hui mua ʻana o ka polyacrylic acid thickener me ka wai e hana i kahi mole hydration, a laila hui pū ʻia me kahi hāʻawi hydroxyl me kahi hapa nui o 10% -20% (e like me ka loaʻa ʻana o 5 a ʻoi aku nā hui ethoxy) Non-ionic surfactants) i hui pū ʻia e wehe i nā molekala ʻiʻo i loko o ka ʻōnaehana wai e hana i kahi ʻōnaehana pūnaewele e loaʻa ai kahi hopena mānoanoa. ʻO nā waiwai pH like ʻole, nā neutralizers ʻokoʻa a me ka hiki ʻana o nā paʻakai hiki ke hoʻololi nui i ka viscosity o ka ʻōnaehana mānoanoa. Ke emi ka pH ma lalo o 5, hoʻonui ka viscosity me ka piʻi ʻana o ka waiwai pH; i ka 5-10 ka waiwai pH, aneane loli ka viscosity; akā, ke hoʻomau nei ka piʻi ʻana o ka pH, e emi hou ana ka pono mānoanoa. ʻO nā ion monovalent wale nō e hoʻemi i ka mānoanoa o ka ʻōnaehana, ʻoiai ʻo divalent a i ʻole trivalent ion ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe wale i ka ʻōnaehana, akā hoʻopuka pū i nā precipitates insoluble ke lawa ka ʻike.
2.6.3 ʻO ke kopa maoli a me kāna mau huahana i hoʻololi ʻia
Hoʻokomo nui ʻia ka ʻōpala kūlohelohe i ka collagen a me nā polysaccharides, akā ʻo ke kāʻei maoli i hoʻohana ʻia ma ke ʻano he mānoanoa ka nui o polysaccharides (e nānā i ka Papa 1). ʻO ka mīkini mānoanoa ka hana ʻana i ʻekolu-dimensional hydration network structure ma o ka hoʻopili ʻana o ʻekolu pūʻulu hydroxyl i loko o ka polysaccharide unit me nā molekole wai, i hiki ai ke hoʻokō i ka hopena mānoanoa. ʻO nā ʻano rheological o kā lākou mau mea hoʻoheheʻe wai ka hapa nui o nā wai ʻaʻole Newtonian, akā ʻo nā ʻano rheological o kekahi mau hoʻonā dilute e pili kokoke ana i nā wai Newtonian. ʻO kā lākou hopena mānoanoa e pili ana i ka waiwai pH, ka mahana, ka ʻike a me ke alo o nā solutes ʻē aʻe i ka ʻōnaehana. He mānoanoa maikaʻi loa kēia, a ʻo ke ʻano maʻamau he 0.1% -1.0%.
2.6.4 Nā polymers anorganic a me nā huahana i hoʻololi ʻia
ʻO nā mea mānoanoa polymer anorganic maʻamau, he ʻekolu ʻāpana ʻāpana a i ʻole kahi hoʻolālā lattice i hoʻonui ʻia. ʻO nā ʻano ʻelua ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka ʻoihana ʻo ka montmorillonite a me ka hectorite. ʻO ke ʻano mānoanoa, ʻo ia ka wā e hoʻopuehu ʻia ai ka polymer inorganic i ka wai, e hoʻokaʻawale nā iona metala i loko o ia mea mai ka wafer, i ka wā e hoʻomaka ai ka hydration, pehu ʻo ia, a hope loa ua hoʻokaʻawale loa ʻia nā kristal lamellar, e hopena i ka hoʻokumu ʻana i ka lamellar structure anionic. nā kristal. a me nā ʻiona metala i loko o kahi hoʻokuʻu ʻia colloidal. I kēia hihia, loaʻa i ka lamella kahi hoʻopiʻi maikaʻi ʻole o ka ʻili, a ua hoʻopiʻi ʻia kona mau kihi ma muli o nā mokulele haʻihaʻi lattice.
Ka manawa hoʻouna: Dec-26-2022