Focus on Cellulose ethers

Zeziphi iindidi ze-cosmetic thickeners

I-Thickeners sisakhiwo samathambo kunye nesiseko esisisiseko seendlela ezahlukeneyo zokuthambisa, kwaye zibalulekile kwinkangeleko, iipropathi zerheological, uzinzo, kunye nemvakalelo yolusu yeemveliso. Khetha ezisetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo kwaye zimele iintlobo ezahlukeneyo ze-thickeners, zilungiselele izisombululo ezinamanzi ezinogxininiso olwahlukeneyo, uvavanye iimpawu zabo zomzimba kunye neekhemikhali ezifana ne-viscosity kunye ne-pH, kwaye usebenzise uhlalutyo oluchazayo lobungakanani ukujonga inkangeleko yazo, ukungafihli, kunye neemvakalelo zolusu ezininzi ngexesha nasemva. sebenzisa. Iimvavanyo ze-Sensory zenziwa kwizalathisi, kwaye uncwadi lwakhangelwa ukushwankathela kunye nokushwankathela iintlobo ezahlukeneyo ze-thickeners, ezinokubonelela ngereferensi ethile yoyilo lwefomula yezithambiso.

1. Inkcazo ye-thickener

Zininzi izinto ezinokusetyenziswa njengezityebi. Ukususela kumbono wobunzima be-molecular, kukho i-low-molecular thickeners kunye ne-high-molecular thickeners; ukusuka kumbono wamaqela asebenzayo, kukho i-electrolytes, i-alcohol, i-amides, i-carboxylic acids kunye ne-esters, njl. Linda. Ii-thickeners zihlelwa ngokwendlela yokuhlelwa kwezinto eziluhlaza zokuthambisa.

1. Isityebi esisezantsi semolekyuli

1.1.1 Iityuwa ezingaphiliyo

Inkqubo esebenzisa ityuwa ye-inorganic njenge-thickener ngokuqhelekileyo yinkqubo yesisombululo se-aqueous ephuma emanzini. Eyona nto isetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo ityuwa yetyuwa ye-inorganic is sodium chloride, enesiphumo esicacileyo sokuqina. I-surfactants yenza i-micelles kwisisombululo se-aqueous, kwaye ubukho be-electrolytes kwandisa inani lemibutho yee-micelles, ekhokelela ekuguqulweni kwee-micelles ezingqukuva zibe yimicelles emise okwentonga, ukwandisa ukuxhathisa ukuhamba, kwaye ngaloo ndlela ukwandisa i-viscosity yenkqubo. Nangona kunjalo, xa i-electrolyte igqithise, iya kuchaphazela isakhiwo se-micellar, ukunciphisa ukuxhatshazwa kwentshukumo, kunye nokunciphisa i-viscosity yenkqubo, ebizwa ngokuba yi-"salting out". Ngoko ke, ubungakanani be-electrolyte eyongeziweyo ngokuqhelekileyo yi-1% -2% ngobunzima, kwaye isebenza kunye nezinye iintlobo ze-thickeners ukwenza inkqubo izinze ngakumbi.

1.1.2 Utywala obunamafutha, iiasidi ezinamafutha

Utywala obunamafutha kunye ne-fatty acids zizinto eziphilayo ze-polar. Amanye amanqaku abajonga njenge-nonionic surfactants kuba banamaqela amabini e-lipophilic kunye namaqela e-hydrophilic. Ubukho bexabiso elincinci lezinto eziphilayo ezinje zinempembelelo enkulu kuxinzelelo lomphezulu, i-omc kunye nezinye iipropathi ze-surfactant, kwaye ubungakanani besiphumo buyanda kunye nobude bekhonkco lekhabhoni, ngokubanzi kubudlelwane bomgca. Umgaqo wayo wesenzo kukuba i-alcohols ezinamafutha kunye ne-fatty acids zinokufaka (zidibanise) ii-micelles ze-surfactant ukukhuthaza ukubunjwa kwee-micelles. Impembelelo ye-hydrogen bonding phakathi kweentloko ze-polar) yenza ukuba ii-amolekyu ezimbini zilungelelaniswe ngokusondeleyo kumphezulu, ezitshintsha kakhulu iipropathi ze-surfactant micelles kwaye zifezekise umphumo wokuqina.

2. Ukuhlelwa kwee-thickeners

2.1 Ii-non-ionic surfactants

2.1.1 Iityuwa ezingaphiliyo

I-sodium chloride, i-potassium chloride, i-ammonium chloride, i-monoethanolamine chloride, i-diethanolamine chloride, i-sodium sulfate, i-trisodium phosphate, i-disodium hydrogen phosphate kunye ne-sodium tripolyphosphate, njl.;

2.1.2 Utywala obunamafutha kunye neeasidi ezinamafutha

ILauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, C12-15 Alcohol, C12-16 Alcohol, Decyl Alcohol, Hexyl Alcohol, Octyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Lauric Acid Acid, C18-Lilistic Acid, C18-Lilistic acid, C18-Lilistic acid , stearic acid, behenic acid, njl.;

2.1.3 IiAlkanolamides

I-Coco Diethanolamide, i-Coco Monoethanolamide, i-Coco Monoisopropanolamide, i-Cocamide, i-Lauroyl-Linoleoyl Diethanolamide, i-Lauroyl-Myristoyl Diethanolamide, i-Isostearyl Diethanolamide, i-Linoleic Diethanolamide, i-Cardamom Diethanolamide, i-Cardamom Diethanolamide, i-Monoethanolamide, i-Cardamom Diethanolamide noethanolamide, iSesame Diethanolamide, iimbotyi zeSoya Diethanolamide, iStearyl Diethanolamide, Stearin Monoethanolamide, stearyl monoethanolamide stearate, stearamide, tallow monoethanolamide, intsholongwane yengqolowa diethanolamide, PEG (polyethylene glycol) -3 lauramide, PEG-4 oleamide, PEG-50 tallow amide, njl.;

2.1.4 Ietha

I-Cetyl polyoxyethylene (3) ether, isocetyl polyoxypropylene (10) ether, lauryl polyoxyethylene (3) ether, lauryl polyoxyethylene (10) ether, iPoloxamer-n (ethoxylated Polyoxypropylene ether) (n=105, 313, 724,724 , 407), njl.;

2.1.5 Esters

PEG-80 Glyceryl Tallow Ester, PEC-8PPG (Polypropylene Glycol)-3 Diisostearate, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmitate, PEG-n (n=6, 8, 12) Beeswax, PEG -4 isostearate, PEG-n (n= 3, 4, 8, 150) distearate, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate / cocoate, PEG-8 dioleate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-n (n = 28, 200) Glyceryl Shea Butter, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, I-PEG-40 i-Oli ye-Jojoba, i-PEG-2 Laurate, i-PEG-120 i-Methyl glucose dioleate, i-PEG-150 pentaerythritol stearate, i-PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, i-PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate, i-PEG-n (n = 8, 75, i-Stearate) , PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI Copolymer (Polyethylene Glycol-150/Decyl/Methacrylate Copolymer), PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI Copolymer, PEG- 90. Isostearate, PEG-8PPG-3 Dilaurate, Cetyl8 Palma, Cetyl8 -36 Ethylene Glycol Acid, Pentaerythritol Stearate, Pentaerythritol Behenate, propylene glycol stearate, behenyl ester, cetyl ester, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, njl.;

2.1.6 Iioksidi zeamine

I-Myristyl amine oxide, isostearyl aminopropyl amine oxide, i-coconut oil aminopropyl amine oxide, intsholongwane yengqolowa i-aminopropyl amine oxide, i-soybean aminopropyl amine oxide, i-PEG-3 lauryl amine oxide, njl.;

2.2 Ii-amphoteric surfactants

Cetyl Betaine, Coco Aminosulfobetaine, njl.;

2.3 Ii-Anionic surfactants

I-potasium oleate, i-potassium stearate, njl.;

2.4 Iipolima ezinyibilikayo emanzini

2.4.1 ISelulosi

I-cellulose, itshungama ye-cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, i-cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, i-ethyl cellulose, i-hydroxyethyl cellulose, i-hydroxypropyl cellulose, i-hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, i-formazan Base cellulose, i-carboxymethyl cellulose, njl.;

2.4.2 Polyoxyethylene

I-PEG-n (n=5M, 9M, 23M, 45M, 90M, 160M), njl.;

2.4.3 Iasidi yePolyacrylic

I-Abrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Asrylater, Acrylates / i-Crylate Copolymer, i-Acrylates / i-Acrylates / i-Acrylates , Acrylates/Octadecane Ethoxy(20) Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylate/Ocaryl Ethoxy(50) Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylate/VA Crosspolymer, PAA (Polyacrylic Acid), Sodium Acrylate/Vinyl isodecanoate crosslinked polymer, Carbomer (poly ityuwa ye-sodium njl njl) .;

2.4.4 Irabha yendalo kunye neemveliso zayo ezilungisiweyo

I-Alginic acid kunye neetyuwa zayo (i-ammonium, i-calcium, i-potassium), i-pectin, i-sodium hyaluronate, i-guar gum, i-cationic guar gum, i-hydroxypropyl guar gum, i-tragacanth gum, i-carrageenan kunye nayo (i-calcium, i-sodium) ityuwa, i-xanthan gum, i-sclerotin gum, njl. ;

2.4.5 Iipholima ezingaphiliyo kunye neemveliso zazo ezilungisiweyo

I-Magnesium aluminium silicate, i-silica, i-sodium magnesium silicate, i-hydrated silica, i-montmorillonite, i-sodium lithium magnesium silicate, i-hectorite, i-stearyl ammonium montmorillonite, i-stearyl ammonium hectorite, ityuwa ye-quaternary ammonium -90 montmorillonite, i-quaternary ammonium, i-quaternary ammonium, njl. .;

2.4.6 Ezinye

I-PVM / MA i-decadiene i-polymer edibeneyo (i-polymer edibeneyo ye-polyvinyl methyl ether / i-methyl acrylate kunye ne-decadiene), i-PVP (i-polyvinylpyrrolidone), njl.;

2.5 Ii-surfactants

2.5.1 IiAlkanolamides

Eyona isetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo i-coconut diethanolamide. I-Alkanolamides iyahambelana ne-electrolyte yokujiya kwaye inika iziphumo ezilungileyo. Indlela yokujiya yealkanolamides lunxibelelwano kunye ne-anionic surfactant micelles ukwenza ulwelo olungelulo olwaseNewtonian. Ii-alkanolamides ezahlukeneyo zinokumahluko omkhulu ekusebenzeni, kwaye iziphumo zazo zikwahluka xa zisetyenziswa zodwa okanye zidibene. Amanye amanqaku anika ingxelo ngeempawu zokujiya kunye nezinegwebu zealkanolamides ezahlukeneyo. Kutshanje, kuye kwaxelwa ukuba i-alkanolamides inobungozi obunokubakho bokuvelisa i-carcinogenic nitrosamines xa yenziwe kwizinto zokuthambisa. Phakathi kokungcola kwe-alkanolamides kukho ii-amines zamahhala, ezinokuthi zibe yimithombo ye-nitrosamines. Okwangoku akukho luvo lusemthethweni oluvela kwishishini lokhathalelo lomntu malunga nokuba ukuvalwa kwe-alkanolamides kwizinto zokuthambisa.

2.5.2 Ietha

Ekuqulunqweni kunye ne-alcohol enamafutha e-polyoxyethylene ether sodium sulfate (AES) njengeyona nto isebenzayo, ngokubanzi kuphela iityuwa ze-inorganic kuphela ezinokusetyenziswa ukulungisa i-viscosity efanelekileyo. Uphononongo lubonise ukuba oku kungenxa yobukho be-ethoxylates yotywala obunamafutha angaxutywanga kwi-AES, enegalelo elikhulu ekujikeni kwesisombululo se-surfactant. Uphando olunzulu lufumene ukuba: iqondo eliphakathi le-ethoxylation li malunga ne-3EO okanye i-10EO yokudlala indima engcono kakhulu. Ukongeza, isiphumo esityebileyo se-fatty alcohol ethoxylates sinento yokwenza nobubanzi bokusasazwa kotywala obungaphendulwanga kunye nee-homologues eziqulethwe kwiimveliso zabo. Xa ukuhanjiswa kwama-homolog kubanzi, umphumo wokuqina wemveliso uhlwempuzekile, kwaye ukusabalalisa ukusabalalisa kwee-homologues, umphumo omkhulu unokufumaneka.

2.5.3 Esters

Ezona zityebi zisetyenziswa kakhulu zii-esters. Kutshanje, i-PEG-8PPG-3 diisostearate, i-PEG-90 diisostearate kunye ne-PEG-8PPG-3 dilaurate ziye zabikwa phesheya. Olu hlobo lwe-thickener yeye-non-ionic thickener, esetyenziswa ikakhulu kwinkqubo yesisombululo se-aqueous e-surfactant. Ezi zingqimba azikho lula i-hydrolyzed kwaye zine-viscosity ezinzileyo kuluhlu olubanzi lwe-pH kunye nobushushu. Okwangoku eyona nto isetyenziswa kakhulu yi-PEG-150 distearate. Ii-esters ezisetyenziswa njengezinto ezityebileyo zinobunzima obukhulu bemolekyuli, ngoko ke zineempawu ezithile zeekhompawundi zepolymer. Indlela yokuqina ibangelwa kukwenziwa kwenethiwekhi ye-hydration ene-dimensional-dimensional kwisigaba samanzi, ngaloo ndlela idibanisa ii-micelles ze-surfactant. Iikhompawundi ezinjalo zisebenza njenge-emollients kunye ne-moisturizers ngaphezu kokusetyenziswa kwazo njengezinto ezityebileyo kwizinto zokuthambisa.

2.5.4 Iioksidi zeamine

I-amine oxide luhlobo lwe-polar non-ionic surfactant, olubonakaliswa ngu: kwisisombululo esinamanzi, ngenxa yokwahlukana kwexabiso le-pH yesisombululo, sibonisa iimpawu ezingezona ionic, kwaye zingabonisa iimpawu ezinamandla ze-ionic. Ngaphantsi kweemeko ezingathathi hlangothi okanye ze-alkaline, oko kukuthi, xa i-pH inkulu okanye ilingana ne-7, i-amine oxide ikhona njenge-hydrate engekho ionized kwisisombululo samanzi, ebonisa i-non-ionicity. Kwisisombululo esine-acidic, sibonisa i-cationicity ebuthathaka. Xa i-pH yesisombululo ingaphantsi kwe-3, i-cationicity ye-amine oxide ibonakala ngokucacileyo, ngoko inokusebenza kakuhle kunye ne-cationic, i-anionic, i-nonionic kunye ne-zwitterionic surfactants phantsi kweemeko ezahlukeneyo. Ukuhambelana okuhle kunye nokubonisa umphumo we-synergistic. Iamine oxide sisityebi esisebenzayo. Xa i-pH i-6.4-7.5, i-alkyl dimethyl amine oxide ingenza i-viscosity ye-compound ifikelele kwi-13.5Pa.s-18Pa.s, ngelixa i-alkyl amidopropyl dimethyl oxide i-Amines inokwenza i-viscosity ye-compound ifikelele kwi-34Pa.s-49Pa.s, kwaye ukongeza ityuwa ekugqibeleni akuyi kunciphisa i-viscosity.

2.5.5 Ezinye

Iibetain ezimbalwa kunye neesepha nazo zingasetyenziswa njengezityebi. Indlela yabo yokuqina iyafana neyezinye iiamolekyuli ezincinci, kwaye zonke zifikelela kwisiphumo sokuqina ngokunxibelelana neemicelles ezisebenza ngaphezulu. Iisepha zingasetyenziselwa ukujiya kwizinto zokuthambisa zentonga, kwaye i-betaine isetyenziswa kakhulu kwiinkqubo zamanzi aphuma kwi-surfactant.

2.6 Isityebi sepolymer enyibilikayo emanzini

Iinkqubo ezixutywe ngamatye amaninzi e-polymeric azichatshazelwa yi-pH yesisombululo okanye ukuxinwa kwe-electrolyte. Ukongeza, i-polymer thickeners idinga inani elincinci ukufezekisa i-viscosity efunekayo. Umzekelo, imveliso ifuna i-surfactant thickener efana ne-coconut oil diethanolamide eneqhezu lobunzima be-3.0%. Ukufezekisa umphumo ofanayo, kuphela i-fiber 0.5% ye-polymer ecacileyo yanele. Uninzi lweekhompawundi zepolymer ezinyibilikayo emanzini azisetyenziswanga nje kuphela njengezityebi kushishino lwezithambiso, kodwa zikwasetyenziswa njengeearhente zokumisa, izisasazi kunye neearhente zesimbo.

2.6.1 ISelulosi

I-Cellulose i-thickener esebenzayo kakhulu kwiinkqubo ezisekelwe emanzini kwaye isetyenziswa ngokubanzi kwiinkalo ezahlukeneyo zokuthambisa. I-Cellulose yinto engokwemvelo yendalo, equkethe iiyunithi ze-glucoside eziphindaphindiweyo, kwaye iyunithi nganye ye-glucoside iqulethe i-3 amaqela e-hydroxyl, apho i-derivatives ehlukeneyo inokwakheka. I-Cellulose thickeners iyajiya ngokusebenzisa i-hydration-dumba amatyathanga amade, kwaye inkqubo ye-cellulose-thickened ibonisa i-pseudoplastic rheological morphology. Iqhezu eliqhelekileyo lokusetyenziswa limalunga ne-1%.

2.6.2 Iasidi yePolyacrylic

Kukho iindlela ezimbini zokujiya zepolyacrylic acid thickeners, ezizezi neutralization thickening kunye nehydrogen bond thickening. I-neutralization kunye nokujiya kukunciphisa i-acidic polyacrylic acid thickener ukuze i-ionize iimolekyuli zayo kwaye ivelise iintlawulo ezingalunganga ecaleni kwekhonkco eliphambili lepolymer. Ukunyanyiswa phakathi kweentlawulo zesini esifanayo kukhuthaza iimolekyuli ukuba ziqonde kwaye zivule ukwenza inethiwekhi. Isakhiwo sifezekisa umphumo wokuqina; i-hydrogen bonding thickening kukuba i-polyacrylic acid thickener idityaniswa kuqala namanzi ukuze yenze i-molecule ye-hydration, ize idityaniswe ne-hydroxyl donor kunye neqhezu elinzima le-10% -20% (efana nokuba namaqela ama-5 okanye ngaphezulu ethoxy) Non-ionic i-surfactants) idityaniswe ukuze ikhuphe iimolekyuli ezigobileyo kwinkqubo yamanzi ukuze zenze isakhiwo sothungelwano ukufezekisa umphumo wokuqina. Amaxabiso ahlukeneyo e-pH, i-neutralizers eyahlukeneyo kunye nobukho beetyuwa ezinyibilikayo zinempembelelo enkulu kwi-viscosity yenkqubo yokuqina. Xa ixabiso le-pH lingaphantsi kwe-5, i-viscosity iyanda ngokunyuka kwexabiso le-pH; xa ixabiso le-pH li-5-10, i-viscosity iphantse ingatshintshi; kodwa njengoko ixabiso le-pH liqhubeka likhula, ukusebenza kakuhle kuya kuncipha kwakhona. Ii-ion ze-Monovalent zinciphisa kuphela ukusebenza kakuhle kwenkqubo, ngelixa i-divalent okanye i-ion ze-trivalent ayinakubhitya kuphela inkqubo, kodwa ivelise i-insoluble precipitates xa umxholo wanele.

2.6.3 Irabha yendalo kunye neemveliso zayo ezilungisiweyo

Itshungama yendalo ikakhulu ibandakanya i-collagen kunye ne-polysaccharides, kodwa intlaka yendalo esetyenziswa njenge-thickener ikakhulu ziipolysaccharides. Indlela yokutyebisa kukwenza ulwakhiwo lwenethiwekhi ye-hydration ye-three-dimensional ngokusebenzisa intsebenziswano yamaqela amathathu e-hydroxyl kwiyunithi ye-polysaccharide kunye ne-molecule zamanzi, ukuze kufezekiswe umphumo wokuqina. Iifom rheological izisombululo zabo aqueous ikakhulu non-Newtonian ulwelo, kodwa iimpawu rheological ezinye izisombululo dilute kufutshane nolwelo Newtonian. Umphumo wabo wokuqina ngokubanzi uhambelana nexabiso le-pH, ubushushu, ugxininiso kunye nezinye izisombululo zenkqubo. Le yi-thickener esebenzayo kakhulu, kwaye umthamo jikelele ngu-0.1% -1.0%.

2.6.4 Iipholima ezingaphiliyo kunye neemveliso zazo ezilungisiweyo

I-Inorganic polymer thickeners ngokubanzi inesakhiwo esinemaleko amathathu okanye i-lattice eyandisiweyo. Iindidi ezimbini eziluncedo kakhulu kwezorhwebo yi-montmorillonite kunye ne-hectorite. Indlela yokuqina kukuba xa i-polymer ye-inorganic ihlakazekile emanzini, ii-ion zetsimbi ezikuyo ziyahlukana kwi-wafer, njengoko i-hydration iqhubeka, iyancipha, kwaye ekugqibeleni i-crystals ye-lamellar yahlulwe ngokupheleleyo, okukhokelela ekubunjweni kwe-anionic lamellar isakhiwo i-lamellar. iikristale. kunye neeoni zetsimbi kwi-transparent colloidal suspension. Kule meko, i-lamellae inexabiso elibi kunye nexabiso elincinci lentlawulo efanelekileyo kwiikona zabo ngenxa yokuphuka kwe-lattice. Kwisisombululo se-dilute, iintlawulo ezingalunganga kumphezulu zikhulu kunezityholo ezintle kwiikona, kwaye iinqununu zigxotha omnye nomnye, ngoko akuyi kubakho umphumo wokuqina. Ngokudibanisa kunye nokugxininiswa kwe-electrolyte, ukuxinwa kwe-ion kwisisombululo kwandisa kwaye umrhumo womphezulu we-lamellae uyancipha. Ngeli xesha, intsebenziswano ephambili itshintsha ukusuka kumandla okuhlambalaza phakathi kwe-lamellae ukuya kumandla anomtsalane phakathi kweentlawulo ezingalunganga kumphezulu we-lamellae kunye neentlawulo ezilungileyo kwiikona zomphetho, kwaye i-lamellae ehambelanayo idityaniswe ngokuthe ngqo komnye nomnye. ukwenza into ebizwa ngokuba "i-carton-like Isakhiwo se "interspace" sibangela ukuvuvukala kunye ne-gelation ukufezekisa umphumo wokuqina. Ukunyuka okungaphezulu kwi-ion concentration kuya kutshabalalisa isakhiwo


Ixesha lokuposa: Dec-28-2022
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