Focus on Cellulose ethers

Dab tsi yog pawg ntawm cosmetic thickeners

Thickeners yog cov pob txha pob txha thiab lub hauv paus tseem ceeb ntawm ntau yam tshuaj pleev ib ce, thiab tseem ceeb heev rau cov tsos, rheological zog, ruaj khov, thiab tawv nqaij ntawm cov khoom. Xaiv cov feem ntau siv thiab cov neeg sawv cev sib txawv ntawm cov thickeners, npaj lawv mus rau hauv cov kev daws teeb meem nrog ntau qhov sib txawv, sim lawv lub cev thiab tshuaj lom neeg xws li viscosity thiab pH, thiab siv cov lus piav qhia ntau los kuaj xyuas lawv cov tsos, pob tshab, thiab ntau qhov kev xav ntawm daim tawv nqaij thaum lub sij hawm thiab tom qab. siv. Kev ntsuam xyuas qhov ntsuas tau ua tiav ntawm cov ntsuas, thiab cov ntaub ntawv tau tshawb fawb los sau cov ntsiab lus ntawm ntau hom thickeners, uas tuaj yeem muab qee qhov kev siv rau kev tsim cov qauv tshuaj pleev ib ce.

1. Cov lus piav qhia ntawm cov thickener

Muaj ntau ntau yam khoom uas yuav siv tau los ua thickeners. Los ntawm kev xav ntawm cov txheeb ze molecular hnyav, muaj tsawg-molecular thickeners thiab high-molecular thickeners; los ntawm kev xav ntawm cov pab pawg ua haujlwm, muaj cov electrolytes, alcohols, amides, carboxylic acids thiab esters, thiab lwm yam. Tos. Thickeners raug cais raws li kev faib tawm ntawm cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce.

1. Tsawg molecular hnyav thickener

1.1.1 Inorganic ntsev

Lub kaw lus uas siv cov ntsev inorganic ua cov thickener feem ntau yog cov tshuaj surfactant aqueous. Feem ntau siv inorganic ntsev thickener yog sodium chloride, uas muaj qhov pom tseeb thickening nyhuv. Surfactants tsim micelles nyob rau hauv aqueous tov, thiab lub xub ntiag ntawm electrolytes tsub kom tus naj npawb ntawm cov koom haum ntawm micelles, ua rau lub transformation ntawm spherical micelles mus rau hauv tus pas nrig-shaped micelles, ua rau kom tsis txhob txav mus, thiab yog li ua rau lub viscosity ntawm lub system. Txawm li cas los xij, thaum cov electrolyte ntau dhau lawm, nws yuav cuam tshuam rau cov qauv micellar, txo qhov kev txav mus los, thiab txo cov viscosity ntawm lub cev, uas yog hu ua "salting out". Yog li ntawd, tus nqi ntawm electrolyte ntxiv yog feem ntau 1% -2% los ntawm huab hwm coj, thiab nws ua hauj lwm ua ke nrog rau lwm hom thickeners kom lub kaw lus ruaj khov.

1.1.2 Fatty alcohols, fatty acids

Fatty alcohols thiab fatty acids yog polar organic tshuaj. Qee cov ntawv suav tias lawv yog cov tsis muaj zog surfactants vim lawv muaj ob pawg lipophilic thiab pawg hydrophilic. Lub hav zoov ntawm ib qho me me ntawm cov khoom siv organic no muaj kev cuam tshuam loj rau ntawm qhov nro, omc thiab lwm yam khoom ntawm surfactant, thiab qhov loj ntawm cov nyhuv nce nrog qhov ntev ntawm cov saw hlau, feem ntau nyob rau hauv kev sib raug zoo linear. Nws lub hauv paus ntsiab lus ntawm kev ua yog tias fatty alcohols thiab fatty acids tuaj yeem ntxig (sib koom) surfactant micelles los txhawb kev tsim cov micelles. Cov nyhuv ntawm hydrogen bonding ntawm lub ncov qaumteb qabteb taub hau) ua rau ob lub molecules teem nyob ze rau ntawm qhov chaw, uas zoo heev hloov lub zog ntawm surfactant micelles thiab ua tiav cov nyhuv ntawm thickening.

2. Kev faib cov thickeners

2.1 Tsis-ionic surfactants

2.1.1 Inorganic ntsev

Sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, monoethanolamine chloride, diethanolamine chloride, sodium sulfate, trisodium phosphate, disodium hydrogen phosphate thiab sodium tripolyphosphate, thiab lwm yam.

2.1.2 Fatty alcohols thiab fatty acids

Lauryl Cawv, Myristyl Cawv, C12-15 Cawv, C12-16 Cawv, Decyl Cawv, Hexyl Cawv, Octyl cawv, Cetyl cawv, Stearyl cawv, Behenyl cawv, Lauric Acid, C18-36 Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linistic acid , stearic acid, behenic acid, thiab lwm yam.;

2.1.3 Alkanolamides

Coco Diethanolamide, Coco Monoethanolamide, Coco Monoisopropanolamide, Cocamide, Lauroyl-Linoleoyl Diethanolamide, Lauroyl-Myristoyl Diethanolamide, Isostearyl Diethanolamide, Linoleic Diethanolamide, Cardamom Diethanolamide, Cardamom Monoethanolamide, Cov roj ntsha Monoethanolamide, , Sesame Diethanolamide, Soybean Diethanolamide, Stearyl Diethanolamide, Stearin Monoethanolamide, stearyl monoethanolamide stearate, stearamide, tallow monoethanolamide, nplej kab mob diethanolamide, PEG (polyethylene glycol)-3 lauramide, PEG-4 oleamide, PEG-50 tallow amide, thiab lwm yam.

2.1.4 Ethers

Cetyl polyoxyethylene (3) ether, isocetyl polyoxyethylene (10) ether, lauryl polyoxyethylene (3) ether, lauryl polyoxyethylene (10) ether, Poloxamer-n (ethoxylated Polyoxypropylene ether) (n = 105, 125, 3, 28, 238, , 407), ib.;

2.1.5 TSI

PEG-80 Glyceryl Tallow Ester, PEC-8PPG (Polypropylene Glycol)-3 Diisostearate, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmitate, PEG-n (n= 6, 8, 12) Beeswax, PEG -4 isostearate, PEG-n (n= 3, 4, 8, 150) distearate, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate / cocoate, PEG-8 dioleate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-n (n= 28, 200) Glyceryl Shea Butter, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Roj, PEG-40 Jojoba Roj, PEG-2 Laurate, PEG-120 Methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-150 pentaerythritol stearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-n (n= 8, 75, 100) PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI Copolymer (Polyethylene Glycol-150/Decyl/Methacrylate Copolymer), PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI Copolymer, PEG-90. Isostearate, PEG-8PPG-3 Dilaurate, Cetyl Myristal8, Cetyl Myristalate, -36 Ethylene Glycol Acid, Pentaerythritol Stearate, Pentaerythritol Behenate, propylene glycol stearate, behenyl ester, cetyl ester, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, thiab lwm yam.

2.1.6 Amine oxides

Myristyl amine oxide, isostearyl aminopropyl amine oxide, txiv maj phaub roj aminopropyl amine oxide, hom qoob mog aminopropyl amine oxide, taum pauv aminopropyl amine oxide, PEG-3 lauryl amine oxide, thiab lwm yam.;

2.2 Amphoteric surfactants

Cetyl Betaine, Coco Aminosulfobetaine, thiab lwm yam.;

2.3 Anionic surfactants

Potassium oleate, potassium stearate, thiab lwm yam.;

2.4 Cov dej-soluble polymers

2.4.1 Cellulose

Cellulose cov pos hniav,carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, formazan Base cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, thiab lwm yam.;

2.4.2 Polyoxyethylene

PEG-n (n=5M, 9M, 23M, 45M, 90M, 160M), thiab lwm yam;

2.4.3 Polyacrylic acid

Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Cetyl Ethoxy (20) Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Cetyl Ethoxy (20) Methyl Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Tetradecyl Ethoxy (25) Acrylate Copolymer (20) Acrylate Copolymer, mer, Acrylates / Octadecane Ethoxy (20) Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylate / Ocaryl Ethoxy (50) Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylate / VA Crosspolymer, PAA (Polyacrylic Acid), Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl isodecanoate crosslinked polymer, Carbomer (polyacrylic acid) thiab lwm yam .;

2.4.4 Ntuj roj hmab thiab nws cov khoom hloov kho

Alginic acid thiab nws (ammonium, calcium, potassium) ntsev, pectin, sodium hyaluronate, guar gum, cationic guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, tragacanth gum, carrageenan thiab nws (calcium, sodium) ntsev, xanthan gum, sclerotin gum, thiab lwm yam. ;

2.4.5 Inorganic polymers thiab lawv cov khoom hloov kho

Magnesium aluminium silicate, silica, sodium magnesium silicate, hydrated silica, montmorillonite, sodium lithium magnesium silicate, hectorite, stearyl ammonium montmorillonite, stearyl ammonium hectorite, quaternary ammonium ntsev -90 montmorillonite, quaternary ammonium, thiab lwm yam. .;

2.4.6 Lwm yam

PVM / MA decadiene crosslinked polymer (crosslinked polymer ntawm polyvinyl methyl ether / methyl acrylate thiab decadiene), PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone), thiab lwm yam.

2.5 Surfactants

2.5.1 Alkanolamides

Feem ntau siv yog txiv maj phaub diethanolamide. Alkanolamides yog sib xws nrog electrolytes rau thickening thiab muab cov txiaj ntsig zoo tshaj plaws. Lub thickening mechanism ntawm alkanolamides yog kev cuam tshuam nrog anionic surfactant micelles los tsim cov kua dej uas tsis yog-Newtonian. Ntau yam alkanolamides muaj qhov sib txawv hauv kev ua tau zoo, thiab lawv cov teebmeem kuj txawv thaum siv ib leeg lossis ua ke. Qee cov ntawv tshaj tawm cov thickening thiab foaming zog ntawm txawv alkanolamides. Tsis ntev los no, nws tau raug tshaj tawm tias alkanolamides muaj peev xwm tsim cov tshuaj tua kab mob nitrosamines thaum lawv ua rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce. Ntawm cov impurities ntawm alkanolamides yog dawb amines, uas yog cov peev txheej ntawm nitrosamines. Tam sim no tsis muaj kev pom zoo los ntawm kev lag luam saib xyuas tus kheej txog seb puas yuav txwv alkanolamides hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce.

2.5.2 Ethers

Nyob rau hauv cov formulation nrog fatty cawv polyoxyethylene ether sodium sulfate (AES) raws li lub ntsiab active tshuaj, feem ntau tsuas inorganic ntsev yuav siv tau los kho qhov tsim nyog viscosity. Cov kev tshawb fawb tau pom tias qhov no yog vim muaj cov tsis muaj roj fatty cawv ethoxylates hauv AES, uas ua rau muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau cov thickening ntawm cov tshuaj surfactant. Kev tshawb fawb tob pom tias: qhov nruab nrab ntawm ethoxylation yog hais txog 3EO lossis 10EO los ua lub luag haujlwm zoo tshaj plaws. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov nyhuv thickening ntawm fatty cawv ethoxylates muaj ntau ua nrog rau kev faib dav ntawm unreacted alcohols thiab homologues muaj nyob rau hauv lawv cov khoom. Thaum qhov kev faib tawm ntawm homologues dav dua, cov nyhuv thickening ntawm cov khoom tsis zoo, thiab qhov nqaim ntawm kev faib tawm ntawm homologues, qhov ntau dua cov nyhuv thickening tuaj yeem tau.

2.5.3 Nws

Feem ntau siv cov thickeners yog esters. Tsis ntev los no, PEG-8PPG-3 diisostearate, PEG-90 diisostearate thiab PEG-8PPG-3 dilaurate tau tshaj tawm txawv teb chaws. Qhov no hom ntawm thickener belongs rau non-ionic thickener, feem ntau yog siv nyob rau hauv surfactant aqueous tov system. Cov thickeners no tsis yooj yim hydrolyzed thiab muaj viscosity ruaj khov nyob rau ntau yam ntawm pH thiab kub. Tam sim no feem ntau siv yog PEG-150 distearate. Cov esters siv los ua cov thickeners feem ntau muaj qhov hnyav molecular, yog li lawv muaj qee yam khoom ntawm cov khoom siv polymer. Lub thickening mechanism yog tsim los ntawm peb-dimensional hydration network nyob rau hauv lub aqueous theem, yog li incorporating surfactant micelles. Xws li cov tebchaw ua raws li emollients thiab moisturizers ntxiv rau lawv siv ua thickeners hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce.

2.5.4 Amine oxides

Amine oxide yog ib hom polar non-ionic surfactant, uas yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm: nyob rau hauv aqueous tov, vim qhov sib txawv ntawm pH tus nqi ntawm cov tshuaj, nws qhia tau hais tias tsis-ionic zog, thiab muaj peev xwm kuj qhia ionic zog. Nyob rau hauv nruab nrab los yog alkaline tej yam kev mob, uas yog, thaum lub pH ntau tshaj los yog sib npaug zos rau 7, amine oxide tshwm sim raws li ib tug uas tsis yog-ionized hydrate nyob rau hauv aqueous kua, uas qhia tsis yog-ionicity. Nyob rau hauv acidic tov, nws qhia tsis muaj zog cationicity. Thaum pH ntawm cov tshuaj yog tsawg dua 3, cationicity ntawm amine oxide yog tshwj xeeb tshaj yog pom tseeb, yog li nws muaj peev xwm ua hauj lwm zoo nrog cationic, anionic, nonionic thiab zwitterionic surfactants nyob rau hauv txawv tej yam kev mob. Zoo compatibility thiab qhia synergistic nyhuv. Amine oxide yog cov thickener zoo. Thaum pH yog 6.4-7.5, alkyl dimethyl amine oxide tuaj yeem ua rau cov viscosity ntawm cov khoom sib xyaw ncav cuag 13.5Pa.s-18Pa.s, thaum alkyl amidopropyl dimethyl oxide Amines tuaj yeem ua kom cov viscosity mus txog 34Pa.s-49Pa.s, thiab ntxiv ntsev rau tom kawg yuav tsis txo cov viscosity.

2.5.5 Lwm yam

Ob peb betaines thiab xab npum kuj tseem siv tau ua cov thickeners. Lawv cov txheej txheem thickening zoo ib yam li lwm cov molecules me me, thiab lawv txhua tus ua tiav cov nyhuv thickening los ntawm kev cuam tshuam nrog cov micelles saum npoo. Cov xab npum tuaj yeem siv los ua kom tuab hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, thiab betaine feem ntau yog siv hauv cov dej surfactant.

2.6 Dej-soluble polymer thickener

Cov txheej txheem thickened los ntawm ntau polymeric thickeners tsis cuam tshuam los ntawm pH ntawm cov tshuaj los yog cov concentration ntawm cov electrolyte. Tsis tas li ntawd, polymer thickeners xav tau tsawg dua kom ua tiav qhov xav tau viscosity. Piv txwv li, ib yam khoom yuav tsum muaj ib tug surfactant thickener xws li txiv maj phaub roj diethanolamide nrog ib tug loj feem ntawm 3.0%. Txhawm rau kom ua tiav cov txiaj ntsig zoo ib yam, tsuas yog fiber ntau 0.5% ntawm cov polymer dawb yog txaus. Feem ntau cov dej-soluble polymer tebchaw tsis yog tsuas yog siv los ua cov thickeners hauv kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce, tab sis kuj siv los ua cov tshuaj tua kab mob, dispersants thiab styling agents.

2.6.1 Cellulose

Cellulose yog cov thickener zoo heev nyob rau hauv dej-raws li systems thiab yog dav siv nyob rau hauv ntau yam ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce. Cellulose yog cov organic teeb meem, uas muaj rov qab glucoside units, thiab txhua chav tsev glucoside muaj 3 pawg hydroxyl, los ntawm ntau yam derivatives tuaj yeem tsim. Cellulosic thickeners thicken los ntawm hydration-o ntev chains, thiab cellulose-thickened system qhia pom tseeb pseudoplastic rheological morphology. Qhov dav dav feem ntau ntawm kev siv yog li 1%.

2.6.2 Polyacrylic acid

Muaj ob txoj kev ua kom tuab ntawm polyacrylic acid thickeners, uas yog neutralization thickening thiab hydrogen bond thickening. Neutralization thiab thickening yog neutralize acidic polyacrylic acid thickener rau ionize nws cov molecules thiab tsim cov nqi tsis zoo raws cov saw tseem ceeb ntawm cov polymer. Lub repulsion ntawm tib-poj niam txiv tsub nqi txhawb cov molecules kom ncaj thiab qhib los tsim ib lub network. Cov qauv ua tiav cov nyhuv thickening; hydrogen bonding thickening yog tias cov polyacrylic acid thickener yog thawj zaug ua ke nrog dej los tsim cov dej molecule, thiab tom qab ntawd ua ke nrog hydroxyl pub dawb nrog ib feem ntawm 10% -20% (xws li muaj 5 lossis ntau dua ethoxy pawg) Tsis yog-ionic. surfactants) ua ke rau untangle curly molecules nyob rau hauv lub aqueous system los tsim ib tug network qauv kom ua tau ib tug thickening nyhuv. Txawv pH qhov tseem ceeb, sib txawv neutralizers thiab muaj cov ntsev soluble muaj kev cuam tshuam zoo rau cov viscosity ntawm cov thickening system. Thaum tus nqi pH tsawg dua 5, qhov viscosity nce nrog qhov nce ntawm tus nqi pH; thaum pH tus nqi yog 5-10, viscosity yuav luag tsis hloov; tab sis raws li tus nqi pH tseem nce ntxiv, cov thickening efficiency yuav txo qis dua. Monovalent ions tsuas yog txo cov thickening efficiency ntawm lub cev, thaum divalent los yog trivalent ions tsis tsuas yog nyias nyias, tab sis kuj tsim insoluble precipitates thaum cov ntsiab lus txaus.

2.6.3 Ntuj roj hmab thiab nws cov khoom hloov kho

Cov pos hniav ntuj feem ntau suav nrog collagen thiab polysaccharides, tab sis cov pos hniav ntuj siv los ua cov thickener feem ntau yog polysaccharides. Lub thickening mechanism yog tsim ib tug peb-dimensional hydration network qauv los ntawm kev sib cuam tshuam ntawm peb hydroxyl pawg nyob rau hauv lub polysaccharide chav tsev nrog dej molecules, thiaj li mus cuag lub thickening nyhuv. Cov ntaub ntawv rheological ntawm lawv cov tshuaj aqueous feem ntau tsis yog-Newtonian kua, tab sis cov khoom rheological ntawm qee cov tshuaj dilute yog ze rau Newtonian kua. Lawv cov nyhuv thickening feem ntau cuam tshuam nrog tus nqi pH, qhov kub thiab txias, concentration thiab lwm yam kev daws teeb meem ntawm lub cev. Qhov no yog cov thickener zoo heev, thiab qhov dav dav yog 0.1% -1.0%.

2.6.4 Inorganic polymers thiab lawv cov khoom hloov kho

Inorganic polymer thickeners feem ntau muaj peb-txheej txheej txheej txheej los yog nthuav dav lattice qauv. Ob hom kev lag luam tseem ceeb tshaj plaws yog montmorillonite thiab hectorite. Lub thickening mechanism yog hais tias thaum lub inorganic polymer yog dispersed nyob rau hauv dej, cov hlau ions nyob rau hauv nws diffuse los ntawm lub wafer, raws li lub hydration pib, nws swells, thiab thaum kawg lub lamellar muaju yog kiag li sib cais, uas ua rau tsim anionic lamellar qauv lamellar. siv lead ua. thiab hlau ions nyob rau hauv lub pob tshab colloidal ncua kev kawm ntawv. Nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv no, lamellae muaj ib tug tsis zoo nto nqi thiab ib tug me me ntawm zoo nqi ntawm lawv cov ces kaum vim lattice puas. Nyob rau hauv ib qho kev daws teeb meem, cov nqi tsis zoo nyob rau saum npoo yog ntau dua li cov nqi zoo ntawm cov ces kaum, thiab cov khoom sib sib zog nqus, yog li yuav tsis muaj cov nyhuv thickening. Nrog rau qhov sib ntxiv thiab cov ntsiab lus ntawm electrolyte, qhov concentration ntawm ions hauv cov tshuaj nce ntxiv thiab cov nqi ntawm lamellae txo qis. Nyob rau lub sijhawm no, kev sib cuam tshuam tseem ceeb hloov pauv los ntawm lub zog quab yuam ntawm lamellae mus rau lub zog txaus nyiam ntawm cov nqi tsis zoo ntawm lub ntsej muag ntawm lamellae thiab cov nqi zoo ntawm cov ces kaum ntawm ntug, thiab cov lamellae thaum uas tig mus yog cross-linked perpendicularly rau ib leeg. los tsim ib lub npe hu ua "carton-zoo li Cov qauv ntawm "interspace" ua rau o thiab gelation kom ua tiav cov nyhuv ntawm thickening. Kev nce ntxiv hauv ion concentration yuav rhuav tshem cov qauv


Post lub sij hawm: Dec-28-2022
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